Thursday, June 23, 2011

Last supper at Aqua Riva:

Tonight I went down to Aqua Riva to dine for the last time ever as the restaurant is set to close it's doors in a week after 15 years of serving fine dining fare to the people of Vancouver.  For personal reasons I am very sad to see this happen.  I spent the majority of my 20's working in the kitchen there.  I did a couple years of apprenticing under the former chef there Deb Connors, and really I learned most of my line cooking chops in that kitchen.  I'm going to offer up a review of the meal but also I'm going to use this to illustrate a major problem in the culinary scene here in Vancouver and in North American food culture in general. 


To start we (me and my girlfriend) ordered the crisp calamari salad with pickled mango and cilantro vinaigrette, and the lobster bisque.  The bisque was nice, good texture and seasoned pretty well.  I found the tarragon cream that was on top to be quite a bit overpowering and the lobster flavour got a bit lost but overall not a bad bisque.  The crisp calamari salad I had some concerns right off the bat, because 90% of the time when you order something like this the calamari inherently comes out soggy due to the moisture of the lettuce and the vinaigrette, but not this time.  This appy was a home run for sure, well balanced flavours and great textures all around.


Next up for main course we ordered a potato fennel crusted wild sockeye salmon with parmesan polenta fries and a lemon basil vinaigrette, as well as a wood grilled flat iron steak with chorizo and scallion mashed and pan roasted broccolini.  For the salmon dish, the salmon was cooked to a perfect medium rare/medium (Take note that this is how sockeye salmon is supposed to be cooked!  Not well done or medium well!), the vinaigrette had great flavour and the crust was very pleasant.  The polenta fries had nice texture but were a bit underflavoured for my liking, and my main complaint about Aqua Riva's food even when I worked there was the over use of cold salsas and relishes on protiens.  Once in a while its fine but I feel they always overplayed that card there.  The flat Iron steak was fantastic.  It was cooked to a perfect medium rare as requested, sliced properly, the vegetables were beautifully seasoned, broccolini was amazing (it's my favourite vegetable) and the sauce had some hints of curry or some middle eastern flavour that really tied the dish together nicely.  Only complaint I had was that the mashed potatoes were a bit underseasoned, but they were still pretty good.  My plate was totally clean.  Main course was awesome.
  For dessert we had a banana chocolate mousse cake and a double chocolate bread pudding with rum caramel sauce.  The mousse cake was pretty good, I'm not a huge fan of mousse cakes in general so it wasn't my cup of tea persay, but the texture was nice and all the flavours were there.  The bread pudding has been on the menu since I started working there in 2002, and they have vastly improved on the recipe.  It was warm, nice and crispy on the outside and soft inside.  The rum sauce was great, and it had a nice minimalist presentation.  No complaints!

Overall a fantastic meal.  This is part of a $25 three course menu that is running until they close next week so I urge you to  go down and get this great deal while it's still here!

Aqua Riva on Urbanspoon

Now I have to get up on my soapbox and give a sermon and a rant about how for me this situation illustrates a problem in the food scene here.  When I was dining there tonight, I noticed that the place was packed.  Strange for a restaurant that is closing it's doors to be packed no?  The thing is people are NOW coming in for one last meal before it closes because they know it's closing.  Don't know what you got til it's gone eh? I overheard customers expressing their sadness for the restaurants impending closure....which really pissed me off.  I was thinking to myself hey customers, where have you been for the last 2-3 years!??  The answer is they have been eating at shitholes like Cactus Club, Earls, The Keg, etc.  And yes those places are shitholes!  If you eat at those places then you are dining in a shithole, eating shit food, in a giant hole.

So why do people eat at Cactus Club and the rest of the corporate slop houses as opposed to a nice restaurant like Aqua Riva?  The answer is advertising, familiarity and laziness.  People are familiar with them, so they go there.  The food isn't better at Cactus Club than at Aqua Riva, it's not even in the same stratosphere.  It sucks, plain and simple.  There's no reason to go eat at Craptus Club over any of the amazing restaurants in Vancouver other than the fact that a person is lazy and doesn't want to think or take a chance.

The main misconception is that it's cheaper at a chain restaurant, which may be true but by like 4 dollars!  Is a 4 dollar price difference worth eating crappy food and supporting faceless bland factory style open a cryo bag and dump out an artificial sauce type cooking over fantastic professional REAL food created with passion and technique?  Not in my book, and if it's in your book then get yourself an editor and re write said book!  Tonight my 3 course dinner for 2 with wine, stella artois,  coffee, and espresso came to $75 with tip.  Main courses alone at Cactus Club go for around $22 to $25!  So add that up, 2 mains plus a couple drinks = about $75!   So the same price as my meal except to eat garbage!

Here's the thing I find dumber than anything...."Oh well they have hot servers at Cactus Club".  WHO GIVES A SHIT!!!!  You think the girl serving you is going to go home with you for that $20 tip you just left her?  If that's your mentality towards women then just get over yourself and go buy a hooker, cut the bullshit.  Also, she is being nice to you because she has to.......it's her job!  In any other environment she'd probably send you packing home, tail between your legs, nuts up in your throat, sobbing about how she's probably a lesbian anyways.  

People in this city need to take a good look at what they are eating when they go out, who is making it, and is it worth the money you are paying for it.  There are a lot of amazing meals to be had in this town, and not a single one of them is in a chain restaurant.  So please, go support real chefs, real restaurants, real cooking techniques and go have yourself some REAL FOOD! 


Friday, June 17, 2011

People often ask me was a chef if I watch the Food Network at all and what I think of it.  The answer is a mixed bag.

I think the Food Network and it's rise in popularity has been both a good and bad thing for our industry.  In a way it gets people interested in food, in what's in their food, and educates them along the way.  I think any show that inspires the individual to eat better and to cook more is a great thing.  I also think that it has piqued the interest in the culinary sector as a career choice and given people a bit of a glimpse into the type of work and lifestyle us chefs live.

However I think it's also created some misconceptions as well.  For one you get people who quit their $60 000 plus a year job in software or whatever sector they happen to be in cause they think it's "cool" to be a chef.  These people find out soon that you start your career as a jabroni prep cook slaving away for $9.50 an hour and you do this for years before you see any reward or wage increase.  It's a shame to see these people waste a ton of money on a culinary education without properly researching the industry they are trying to cross over into.

The other annoying thing that the Food Network's rise has created is a slew of wannabe Iron Chef judges, so called experts and amateur food critics.  These people quickly become jaded, and rather than just going out to enjoy a meal they feel the need to analyze and deconstruct with their untrained and uneducated palates.  It's annoying as a chef or a cook to have someone bitch and try to correct you on your food when you've cooked it properly and the person has no clue what they are talking about.  To this end, mistakes do happen in a kitchen but you'd be surprised to see how often customers try to talk a big game and really wind up looking like total fools. 

There are some Food Network shows I like a lot and follow religiously.  Top Chef I think is the best of the lot.  It's really well done, has some real pros on there and it pushes the contestants to the limit with not a lot of  gimmicks or pageantry.  The product positioning is a little annoying, but that's business.  There are others that I can't stand.  I think Hell's Kitchen is a pile of shit.  As entertaining as it was at first to watch Gordon Ramsey yell at buffoons, the joke has worn thin quickly.  If any chef spoke to me in the manner that Ramsey does, said chef would be picking his teeth up off the floor!  It's a gimmicky show and it's not a good reflection of the culinary world, despite what some bullshit artists may tell you. 

So The Food Network, tune in to it but take the good with the bad.  Make sure to have your brain filters on when you watch it and weed out the garbage.